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What Do You Need for a Hunting Camp? (Checklist)
You can have the perfect tag and the perfect rifle. If you shiver all night and eat cold beans for a week, your hunt will still feel long.

A good hunting camp keeps you rested and fed so you can get up early and hunt hard. It doesn’t have to be fancy. It just has to work. Use this list when you pack, and check things off as they go in the truck.

Before you pack

Know where you’re camping. Many hunters camp on national forest or BLM land near their unit. Check the rules for that area, including how long you can stay in one spot.

Check for fire restrictions. In Arizona and much of the West, campfires can be limited or banned when it’s dry. Call or check the website for the forest or BLM office before you go.

Check the weather. Fall nights in the high country can drop below freezing, even after a warm day. Pack for the coldest night you might see, not the average.

Shelter
- Tent, camper, or trailer (check that the tent poles and stakes are all there)
- Ground tarp
- Extra stakes and a hammer or mallet
- Rope or paracord
- A big tarp for shade or rain over your cooking area
Sleeping

Good sleep is a big part of a good hunt. Don’t skimp here.
- Sleeping bag rated for colder than you expect
- Sleeping pad (this keeps the cold ground from pulling heat out of you)
- Pillow
- Warm clothes to sleep in, like a wool hat and dry socks
- Earplugs, if your hunting buddy snores
Photo from Pexels

Kitchen

Keep meals simple. You’ll be tired, and it’s often dark when you cook.
- Camp stove and fuel
- Lighter and waterproof matches
- Pots, pan, and a kettle or pot for hot water
- Plates, bowls, cups, and utensils
- Cooking spoon, spatula, and a sharp kitchen knife
- Cutting board
- Coolers and ice
- Food for every meal, plus a little extra
- Coffee or hot drinks for cold mornings
- Dish soap, a wash tub, and a sponge
- Paper towels
- Trash bags (pack out everything you bring in)
Water

Bring more water than you think you’ll need. Many hunting areas in Arizona have no water you can count on.
- Large water jugs for camp
- Water bottles or a hydration pack for the day
- A water filter or treatment, as a backup
Light and power
- Headlamp for each person
- A lantern for camp
- Spare batteries
- A battery pack or truck charger for phones and GPS
Camp comfort
- Camp chairs
- A folding table
- Small shovel
- Toilet paper and a plan for going to the bathroom (dig a hole well away from water and camp, or bring a portable toilet)
- Hand wipes and hand sanitizer
- A small towel
Safety and first aid
- First-aid kit
- Fire extinguisher or a bucket of water and a shovel, if fires are allowed
- A paper map of the area
- A way to call for help. Phones often have no signal in the backcountry. A satellite messenger is worth looking into.
- Tell someone at home where your camp is and when you’ll be back
Meat care

This part gets forgotten until there’s an animal on the ground.
- Game bags
- Extra coolers and ice, or a plan to get meat to a processor fast
- A shady spot or a way to hang meat off the ground
- Rope and a small saw
- Your field dressing kit (see our field dressing guide)
Vehicle
- Spare tire, jack, and lug wrench
- Tire repair kit and a small air pump
- Tow strap
- Extra fuel, if you’ll be far from a gas station
- Shovel and a few boards for getting unstuck
A few camp tips
- Set up camp in daylight. It’s much harder in the dark.
- Keep food and trash put away. It keeps critters out of camp, and in bear country it keeps you safe. Follow any food storage rules for the area.
- Keep your hunting gear in one spot. At 4 a.m. you’ll be glad you know where everything is.
- Leave camp cleaner than you found it. Pick up all trash, put out fires completely, and pack it out.
Make the list your own

After every trip, write down what you wished you’d had and what you never used. In a season or two you’ll have a camp list that fits you.

Next step: Pair this with our first deer hunt gear checklist so your hunting gear is covered too.
October 30, 2026
What Binoculars Should You Buy for Hunting? (8x vs 10x Made Simple)
Binoculars might be the most useful thing in your pack. You’ll spend far more time looking for animals than shooting at them. Good glass helps you find deer before they find you.

Binocular boxes are covered in numbers, though. Here’s what they mean, so you can buy the right pair once.

What the numbers mean

Every pair has two numbers, like 8×42 or 10×42.
- The first number is the power. An 8x makes things look 8 times closer. A 10x makes them look 10 times closer.
- The second number is the size of the front lenses, in millimeters. Bigger lenses let in more light. A 42 is the most common size for hunting.
You might also see “field of view.” That’s how wide an area you can see at once. A wider view makes it easier to spot movement and follow a running animal.

8x or 10x?

Both are good. It depends on where you hunt.

Pick 8x if:
- You hunt thick woods or brush where shots are close
- You want a wider view and an image that’s easier to hold steady
- You glass a lot at dawn and dusk
Pick 10x if:
- You hunt open country and look across big canyons
- You want to see more detail far away
- You plan to use a tripod some of the time
The extra power of a 10x also shows every shake of your hands. If you can’t hold them still, you won’t see the extra detail anyway. Try both in a store if you can.

Photo from Pexels

Why Arizona hunters care so much about glass

Much of Arizona is wide open. Coues deer, mule deer, elk, and pronghorn often live in big country where you look a long way. Many Arizona hunters sit on a ridge and glass for hours instead of walking.

Some glass with 10x or even bigger binoculars set on a tripod. A tripod holds the binoculars rock steady, so you can pick apart a far hillside slowly and carefully. If you hunt open country, it’s worth reading up on before you go.

What to look for

You don’t need to know how lenses are made. Look for these:
- Waterproof and fog proof. Rain, snow, and cold mornings happen.
- Fully multi-coated lenses. This means the lenses are coated to let in more light and cut glare.
- Good eye relief if you wear glasses. The eyecups should twist down so you can see the full picture.
- A comfortable size and weight. You’ll carry them all day.
- A good warranty. Some brands will fix or replace binoculars even if you break them. Read the terms before you buy.
How much to spend

Binoculars come at every price, from cheap to very expensive. Think of it in three steps.

Budget. A good starter pair will get you through your first seasons. Brands like Bushnell and Vortex make entry-level models many beginners start with.

Middle. This is where most hunters end up. You get clearer glass, better light at dawn and dusk, and tougher builds. Vortex, Leupold, and Maven all sell models here.

High end. Swarovski, Zeiss, and Leica make some of the best glass around. The difference is easiest to see in low light and after hours of glassing, when your eyes stay less tired.

A good rule: buy the best pair you can afford without going into debt. Binoculars last for years, so this is a fair place to spend a bit more.

Try before you buy

If a store near you carries hunting optics, go look through a few pairs. Look at something far away and dark, like the shade under a tree. Check how sharp the edges look, not just the middle. Notice which ones feel good in your hands.

A few tips once you have them
- Use a harness. A chest harness keeps binoculars handy, protects them, and stops them from swinging.
- Set the focus for your eyes. Most binoculars have a dial for one eye. Set it once and you’ll get a sharper picture.
- Glass slowly. Look at one small piece of a hillside at a time. You’re looking for an ear, a leg, or the shine of an antler, not a whole deer standing in the open.
- Rest them on something. A rock, your knees, or a tripod all help you hold steady.
Safety reminder

Never use your rifle scope to look at things you aren’t sure about. Pointing a gun at something you can’t identify is unsafe. That’s one more reason good binoculars belong on every hunt.

Next step: See what else to pack in our first deer hunt gear checklist, or browse more optics posts.
October 28, 2026
How to Field Dress a Deer (Step by Step)
Your deer is down. Your heart is still pounding. And now you’re standing over it, knife in hand, trying to remember what comes next.

That’s normal. Almost every hunter feels a little lost the first time. Field dressing just means taking out the insides so the meat cools fast and stays clean. Do it soon after the deer is down and you’ll have better meat to eat.

If you can, go out with someone who has done it before. Watching once is worth a lot. Until then, here’s the order to follow.

Before you touch the deer

Make sure it’s dead. Walk up from behind, away from the legs. Watch for breathing. Touch the open eye with a long stick. If it blinks, it isn’t done. Stay back and be ready for a second, careful shot.

Tag it first. Many states want your tag filled out and attached before you move the animal. Follow the rules on your tag and in your state’s regulations.

Check what you need to keep. Some states require you to leave proof of sex on the animal, or have rules about moving the carcass. Read your state’s rules before the hunt, not after.

Photo from Pexels

What to bring

You don’t need much. Keep this in your pack:
- A sharp knife (a 3 to 4 inch blade is easy to control)
- A small sharpener
- Rubber or nitrile gloves, the long kind if you can find them
- Rope or paracord to tie back a leg
- Game bags to keep meat clean
- Paper towels or rags
- Water for washing your hands
- Zip-top bags for the heart and liver, if you want to keep them
- A headlamp, because it’s often getting dark by now
Step by step

Take your time. Slow and careful beats fast and sloppy, and it keeps you from cutting yourself.
1. Roll the deer on its back. Point the head slightly uphill if you can, so things slide toward the back end. Tie one back leg off to a tree or bush, or have a friend hold it open.
1. Make the first cut. Pinch up the skin just in front of the back legs. Make a small cut through the skin and thin belly muscle. Go shallow. You don’t want to poke into the stomach or guts.
1. Open the belly. Slide two fingers into the cut, with your palm up, and push the guts down and away. Put the knife blade up, between your fingers, and cut toward the chest. Your fingers keep the blade off the guts. Stop at the bottom of the rib cage.
1. Cut around the back end. Carefully cut around the rear opening so it comes free from the pelvis. Some hunters tie it off with string so nothing leaks. Take your time here, because this is where meat gets dirty.
1. Open the chest. Cut through the thin wall of muscle (the diaphragm) that separates the belly from the chest. Cut it all the way around, close to the ribs.
1. Free the windpipe. Reach up into the chest as far as you can. Find the windpipe and cut it. Be careful, since you’re cutting where you can’t see. Keep your other hand clear of the blade.
1. Pull it all out. Grab the windpipe and pull down and back. The heart, lungs, and guts should come out in one big pile. Use your knife to free anything still holding on.
1. Save the heart and liver if you want them. Put them in a clean bag and keep them cool.
1. Drain and clean. Roll the deer over so the blood drains out. Wipe out the inside with paper towels or rags. Keep dirt, hair, and leaves out as best you can.
Cool the meat fast

Heat is the enemy of good meat. In Arizona, it can still be warm in the afternoon during deer season. That makes this part a big deal.
- Prop the chest open with a stick so air can move through
- Keep the deer in the shade
- Get it back to the truck and on ice as soon as you can
- If you’re quartering in the field, put the meat in game bags right away
Don’t leave a deer lying in the sun while you take a long lunch. The longer it sits warm, the worse it tastes.

Common first-time mistakes
- Cutting too deep on the first cut. A punctured stomach makes a mess and can taint the meat. Go shallow.
- A dull knife. It slips and makes you push harder. That’s how hunters get cut. Sharpen before the hunt.
- Waiting too long. Field dress soon after the deer is down.
- Forgetting gloves. They keep your hands clean and are worth packing every time.
Getting it home

Many states have laws against wasting game meat, so plan how you’ll get it out before you take the shot. Bring a friend, a pack frame, or a game cart. If you’re new, a lot of meat processors will cut and wrap your deer for you. Call ahead and ask what they need.

Next step: Still putting your kit together? Use our first deer hunt gear checklist.
October 26, 2026
What Gear Do You Need for Your First Deer Hunt? (Checklist)
Walk into any outdoor store and you’ll see a whole wall of hunting gear. Calls, scents, gadgets, five kinds of camo. It’s easy to spend a lot of money on things you’ll never use.

Your first deer hunt only needs a short list of gear. Get the basics right, and add more as you learn what you like.

The must-haves

Your gun or bow. Use something you shoot well and that’s legal for deer where you hunt. Your state’s regulations list what’s allowed.

The right ammo. Bring ammo made for hunting deer, and use the same kind you sighted in with. Different ammo can hit in a different spot.

Your license and tag. Keep them on you the whole time you’re hunting. Some states let you carry them on your phone. Check yours.

A knife. You’ll need it to field dress your deer. A fixed blade or a sharp folding knife both work. Bring a small sharpener too.

Blaze orange, if your state requires it. Many states do for rifle seasons, and it’s a good idea anyway around other hunters.

Clothing

Dress in layers so you can add or peel off as the day warms up. Mornings can be cold and afternoons hot, especially in Arizona.
- A base layer that pulls sweat away (wool or synthetic, not cotton)
- A warm middle layer like fleece
- An outer jacket that blocks wind and rain
- A warm hat and gloves
- Good boots that are already broken in
Quiet fabric helps. Deer can hear a crinkly jacket from a long way off.

Photo from Pexels

Seeing and finding deer

Binoculars. These are worth buying early. You’ll spend much more time looking for deer than shooting at them. In open country like Arizona, good binoculars are a big deal. See our post on how to pick hunting binoculars.

A map and a way to find your way back. A phone with a hunting map app works, but bring a backup battery. A paper map and compass don’t need charging.

Field dressing and getting your deer out

This is the part most first-timers forget. Once your deer is down, you’ll need:
- Your knife
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
- Some rope or paracord
- Game bags to keep meat clean
- A few zip-top bags for the heart and liver, if you want them
- Paper towels or rags
- A plan to keep the meat cool, like a cooler with ice back at the truck
In warm weather, get the meat cooled down as fast as you can.

Safety gear

Things go wrong in the woods sometimes. Bring:
- A small first-aid kit
- A headlamp and spare batteries (you’ll walk in and out in the dark)
- A fire starter or lighter
- A whistle
- Plenty of water, more than you think
- Snacks
Tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back.

Nice to have, not a must

These help, but you can hunt without them your first year:
- A rangefinder to tell you how far the deer is
- Shooting sticks or a tripod for a steady rest
- A seat cushion or small stool for long sits
- Deer calls
- Scent-control spray
- Trail cameras (check if they’re allowed in your area)
Gear to skip for now

You don’t need the newest camo pattern, a pile of gadgets, or the most expensive rifle on the rack. Deer don’t care what brand you wear. Spend your money on boots, binoculars, and practice ammo first.

One last tip

Set out all your gear the night before and check it against this list. Then pack it the same way every time. You’ll forget less, and you’ll know where everything is in the dark.

Next step: Brand new to hunting? Read how to start hunting as a total beginner.
October 24, 2026
How the Arizona Big Game Draw Works (In Plain Words)
In a lot of states, you walk into a store and buy a deer tag. Arizona doesn’t work that way for most big game. For elk, pronghorn, and most deer hunts, you apply months ahead and hope your name gets drawn.

The first time you look at it, the draw can feel like a puzzle. It isn’t that bad once someone lays it out. Here’s the simple version.

Before you apply, always check the current rules and dates at azgfd.com. Deadlines and details can change from year to year.

Why Arizona uses a draw

There are more hunters who want tags than there are tags to give. So Arizona Game and Fish sets a number of permits for each hunt, and a computer picks who gets them. It’s fair, and it protects the herds.

Photo from Pexels

The three draws each year

Arizona splits big game into three draws. Roughly:
- Pronghorn and elk. Applications are due in February.
- Deer, fall turkey, fall javelina, bighorn sheep, fall bison, and sandhill crane. Due in June.
- Spring javelina, spring bear, spring turkey, and spring bison. Due in October.
The rules booklet for each draw usually comes out a few months before the deadline. Read it before you apply.

What you need to apply
- A free AZGFD portal account. This is where you apply, see your results, and check your bonus points. Arizona Game and Fish says the portal is the only place to find your draw results.
- An Arizona hunting license. Anyone 10 or older needs one to hunt.
- Your hunt choices. Each hunt has its own number. You can pick up to five.
Your five choices

When you apply, you list hunt numbers in order. First choice is the hunt you want most. You can add up to five.

Think of them in two groups:
- Choices 1 and 2 are your “dream” hunts.
- Choices 3, 4, and 5 are your backups.
This matters because of how the computer reads them, which is next.

The three passes

The draw runs in three rounds, called passes. Each time, every application gets a random number. Low numbers go first.

Pass 1: The bonus point pass. For most species, up to 20 percent of the tags in each hunt go to people with the most bonus points. The computer looks at your first and second choices only. If you have zero bonus points, you skip this pass.

Pass 2: First and second choices. Everyone who didn’t draw in pass 1 gets a new random number. The computer checks first choice, then second choice.

Pass 3: Third, fourth, and fifth choices. Anyone still left gets another new random number. Now the computer checks your backup hunts.

Arizona also limits how many tags can go to nonresidents, so most tags stay with Arizona residents.

How bonus points work

Every time you apply for a species and don’t get drawn, you earn a bonus point for that species. Each bonus point gives you one more random number in the draw. The computer uses your lowest one. More points means more chances at a low number.

A few things to know:
- Points are by species. Elk points only help with elk.
- If you draw a tag, your points for that species go back to zero.
- You can earn a loyalty bonus point by applying for the same species at least once a year, five years in a row. You keep it as long as you keep applying every year.
- You can earn a hunter education bonus point too. Arizona Game and Fish lists its “Ethically Hunting Arizona” course as one way to get it.
This is a bonus point system, not a preference point system. Even with zero points, you still have a chance. It’s just a smaller one.

Applying as a group

Up to four people can apply on one application. The computer averages everyone’s points and rounds to the nearest whole number. There has to be a tag for every person in the group, or the group gets passed over for that hunt.

So if your buddy has lots of points and you have none, applying together pulls the group’s points down.

If you don’t draw

It happens a lot, especially for elk. You still get your bonus point. Then you have a few options:
- Leftover tags. Tags that don’t get drawn are offered after the draw. Watch the Arizona Game and Fish site for dates.
- Over-the-counter tags. Arizona sells some tags without a draw, including some for deer, elk, bear, javelina, turkey, and mountain lion. Check what’s open for your area and season.
- Apply again next year, now with one more point.
Quick tips
- Apply every year for the species you care about, even if you just want the point.
- Use your first two choices on hunts you’d really be happy with.
- Look at past draw reports on the Arizona Game and Fish site to see how hard each hunt is to draw.
- Mark the deadlines on your calendar. They come fast.
Next step: New to all of this? Start with how to start hunting as a total beginner.
October 24, 2026